
Frog Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
What you'll create
What you'll learn
What you'll need

Cotton Yarn
Weight

Colors

Crochet Hook
G6 / 4.00 mm

Safety Bead (x2)
6 mm

Darning Needle

Stuffing
Abbreviations
ch
Chain Stitch
st
Stitch
slst
Slip Stitch
sc
Single Crochet
inc
Increase
invdec
Invisible Decrease
FLO/BLO
Front / Back Loops Only
mbo
Mini Bobble Stitch
bo
Bobble Stitch (4-dc bobble)
Other Useful Info
Gauge
5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 1 – 2” tall
Worked
In the Round (without turning)
Useful Tutorials
The Pattern

01The Body
[Starting in Main Color]
Magic loop
Rnd 1: sc 6 in the magic loop (6)
In the following round we’ll be making mbo (Mini Bobble) stitches for the eyes. Try crocheting them in White to get a googly eyed look. See the video at (11:36) for a detailed example.
mbo = Mini Bobble (dc3tog)
{} = Worked in the same stitch
[W] = Stitch in white
Try not changing to white for the eyes to make a more minimalistic look to your frog. You can also use a line in the eye instead of a safety eye to make a more realistic frog eye!
Rnd 2: inc 1, {sc 1, mbo 1 [W]}, inc 2, {mbo 1 [W], sc 1}, inc 1 (12)
Rnd 3: sc 3, inc 1, sc 5, inc 1, sc 2 (14)
Rnd 4: sc 4, inc 1, sc 6, inc 1, sc 2 (16)
Rnd 5: sc 5, inc 1, sc 6, inc 1, sc 3 (18)
Rnd 6: sc in each st (18)
Add eyes into the mbo stitches from Rnd 2. First, insert a hook between the stitches on either the left or right of the center. Twist the hook to separate the stitches and leave a hole where you can insert the back of a 6mm or 8mm safety eye. Lock onto the back on the inside. There are a few ways to do this to make your Bawnimals looking different directions, so test a few out before locking it in place.
Add a mouth using a line of black thread between the eyes, double knotted on the inside.
In the following round we’ll be making the legs using bo (Bobble) stitches worked into stitches from the rounds *above* Rnd 6. See video at (40:18) for added details.
bo = Bobble (dc4tog)
Rnd 7: sc 6, working into the inc from Rnd 4 (two Rnds up) bo 1 (Photos A1, A2),
sc 1, working into the st from Rnd 5 (one Rnd up) bo 1 (Photos B1, B2),
sc 3, working into the st from Rnd 5 (one Rnd up) bo 1 (Photos C1, C2),
sc 1, working into the inc from Rnd 4 (two Rnds up) bo 1 (Photos D1, D2),
sc 3 (18)
Rnd 8: [sc 1, invdec 1] 6 times (12)
Stuff mostly. Add 2 mini magnets into the top of the head to make your Bawnimals stackable. Make sure it’s flipped the correct way as it is difficult to flip it later!
Sew on any other items you want to add, like a bow!
Rnd 9: invdec in each (6)
Stuff fully. Add 2 more mini magnets to the bottom (make sure it’s flipped correctly!) and sew closed.
If you'd like, try embroidering on a butt line using Black thread.
02Stuffing and Sewing Closed
One of the fun quirks I like to add to all of my Bawnimals is to add mini magnets on both the top and bottom. This allows them to stick to any metal surface, or mini magnets so that they can be worn on clothing and attached to refrigerators.
The magnets in the head also let them attach to each other, so that your Bawnimals can now stack up on each others heads!
To stuff with a mini magnet you’ll first need the right magnets. I like using neodymium magnets because they are super strong and can easily stick together through the crochet fabric. Specifically, I like using 2 size 12x2mm magnets stacked together on both the top and bottom.
After Rnd 8 of the body, before stuffing slightly, first add the mini magnets to the top of your Bawnimal’s head. Use extra magnets on the top to make sure that the ones inside are stuffed as close to the top as possible and stay in place as you finish your Bawnimal.
If you have already made a magnetic Bawnimal, also make sure that the magnets are flipped the correct way so that the negative and positive ends match up and your Bawnimals can still stack, otherwise they will repel each other.
Once in place, stuff slightly using poly-fill and yarn threads to keep the magnet in place. Then continue onto the final Rnd 9 of the body. Sew on any last additions, stuff fully, and finally insert two more mini magnets into the bottom before sewing closed. Make sure, like the top magnets, that these too are flipped the correct way for optimal stack-ability.
03Lily Pad
Starting in Secondary Color. Magic loop.
Row 1: sc 6 in the magic loop (6) (Don't connect)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc in each st (12)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, [sc 1, inc 1] 6 times (18)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, [sc 2, inc 1] 6 times (24)
To make your lily pad larger, simply keep making rows and adding an additional single crochet stitch between inc in the repeat.
Ch 1, don’t turn, starting in the same stitch as your last sc, slst 1 in each stitch down working
first down towards the center, back up to the end of the Row, and then slst in each st around
until you get to one stitch before you’re back to the beginning of the Row.
Cut the yarn and pull through. Hide the end.
04Minigurumi Frog
Starting in Green. Magic loop.
Rnd 1: sc 6 into the magic loop (6)
bump= 2dc bobble
(yo, insert into the next st, yo and pull through, repeat once in the same st, with 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through)
{ } = Worked in the same st
In Rnd 2, we'll be making eyes using bump sts in White White. See video for detailed instructions.
Rnd 2: inc 1, {sc 1, bump 1}, inc 2, {bump 1, sc 1}, inc 1 (12)
All in Green from here on.
Rnd 3 - 4: sc in each (12)
Rnd 5: sc 3, working into the st above mbo 1, sc 1, bump 1, sc 1, bump 1, sc 1, working into the st above mbo 1, sc 2 (12)
Add safety eyes into the White bumps in Rnd 2.
Embroider a mouth using black yarn between eyes.
Rnd 6: dec in each (6)
Cut the yarn and pull through. Stuff fully and sew closed.
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6 thoughts on “Frog Amigurumi Crochet Pattern”
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They are cute.But where are the other bawnimals like the elephant?
yep
If this is a free pattern and I have a basic account (which supposedly includes print friendly PDF’s) why do I have upgrade?
I don’t know.
not sure why it does that, I just print screen shots
BECAUSE THERES OTHER PATTERS THAT YOU CANT ACESSS WITHOUT AN ACOUNT