Dragon Amigurumi

Louie's Loops

Hard difficulty

Hard

4 hours

PDF

Video

Lefty

In this lesson we’ll be crocheting a dragon! This amigurumi dragon pattern features pipe cleaners in all the body parts so that it can be fully posable! It’s a little tricky and not for beginners.

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Main Video Lefty

What you'll learn

What you'll need

Cotton Yarn

Weight

Colors

Color A (Main Color)
Color B (Secondary Color)
White (Face and Claws)
Black (Face detail)
Crochet Hook Size G6 / 4.00mm

Crochet Hook

G6 / 4.00 mm

Safety Bead (x2)

6 mm

Stuffing

Darning Needle

Pipe Cleaners

Abbreviations

ch

Chain Stitch

st

Stitch

slst

Slip Stitch

sc

Single Crochet

inc

Increase

invdec

Invisible Decrease

FLO/BLO

Front / Back Loops Only

dc

Double Crochet

hdc

Half-Double Crochet

tr

Tripple (Trebble) Crochet

sc2tog

Single Crochet 2 Together

sbo

Spiky Bobble Stitch

mp

Mini Picot

Other Useful Info

Gauge

5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 11” long

Worked

In the Round unless otherwise stated

- Season 8 -

Get some sand in your stitches with this new season inspired by beaches and shores!

The Pattern

Use the checkboxes to track your progress
(1:23) The time codes match to the pattern video

01Arms

[All in Color A]
Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 1, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2, sbo 1, sc 1, into the magic loop (8)

Rnds 2-4: sc in each st (8 x 3)

Rnd 5: sc 2, invdec 1, sc 4 (7)

Rnds 6-7: sc in each st (7 x 2)

Rnd 8: sc 2, invdec 1, sc 3 (6)

Rnds 9-10: sc in each (6 x 2)

Slst 1, cut the yarn and pull through leaving enough to sew it onto the body.

To make your arms posable, cut a pipe cleaner in half, fold in half and twist it up, leaving half an inch for connecting to the body. Stuff this into the arm prior to sewing to the body.

02Legs

Make 1 Right and 1 Left

[All in Color A]
Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 1, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2, sbo 1, sc 1, worked into the magic loop (8)

Rnd 2: sc in each st (8)

3R is for the right leg, 3L is for the left leg. Make 1 of each.

Rnd 3R: hdc 1, sc 2, slst 3, sc 1, slst 1 (8)

Rnd 3L: slst 2, sc 2, hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (8)

Cut the yarn leaving a long enough end to sew onto the body and pull through.

03Wings

[All in Color A]
Ch 23

Row 1: turn, skip the first ch and sc in each ch across (22)

Row 2: turn, ch 1, sc in each st across (22)

Fold a pipe cleaner in half and twist up leaving about half an inch untwisted to use for attaching to the body. You will be working around this in Row 3.

Row 3: turn, ch 2 and pull tight, working into both loops and into the other side of the chs you worked into for Row 1, slst in each. Make sure to work around a twisted pipe cleaner as you go so that it is in between the fold. (22)

[Change to Color B] (optional)

mp = mini picot (ch 2, skip 1 ch, slst 1 in the back loop)

Row 4: turn, ch 1, working into the slsts from Row 3, sc 3, mp, hdc 2, dc 1, tr 1, mp, tr 7, dc 1, sc2tog 3, slst 1 (19 + 2 mp, stopping 1 early)

Row 5: turn, skip the slst, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, tr 1, mp, tr 1, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (10 +1 mp)

Cut and pull through.
Add this onto the body by twisting the ends of the pipe cleaner into the body then using the tail end to sew it on

04Teeth

[All in White]
Ch 3

Pull tight, working in the BLO of the 1st ch made, sc 1.

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through. Use these two ends to sew on the face under the lip.

05Lip

[All in Color A]
Ch 14

Cut the yarn leaving a long end and pull through. Sew onto the face under the eyes after Rnd 8 of the Body.

06Spikes (Optional)

[All in Color B]
Ch 3

Step 1: skip the first ch and pull tight, working in the BLO sc2tog in the next 2 chs

Steps 2-9: ch 4, skip the first ch and pull tight, working in the BLO sc2tog in the next 2 chs

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through leaving a long end to sew onto the back. There should be 10 spikes total.

07Head

[All in Color A]
Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic loop (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, inc 2, sc 3 (10)

Consider changing to Color B for the nostrils (Rnd 3) and sbo stitches (Rnd 7) to make a more pronounced facial features.

Rnd 3: sc 4, nostril (working over Rnd 3 and into Rnd 2, dc 1), sc 1, nostril, sc 3 (10)

Rnds 4-6: sc in each (10 x 3)

For the sbo stitches in Rnd 7, try working into the stitches from Rnd 5 (1 round above). This gives your dragon more fierce eyebrows.

Rnd 7: sc 5, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2 (10)

Rnd 8: sc 1, invdec 1, sc 7 (9)

Add the face. Eyes go can go anywhere between Rnds 4 and 7. I like to put them beneath the sbo stitches from Rnd 7. I also like to embroider on a small strand of yarn just under each eye to add more emotion to the eyes, like he’s been hoarding gold for centuries.

Sew the mouth on the front of the face using a ch for each Rnd. Start under the left eye, over the very center, and around to just under the other eye. Use the sbo stitches as guides and try to keep it ending in the same Rnd but on the opposite side. You can use this as an opportunity to add a smile or frown to your dragon!

Sew the teeth on either side of the mouth using the two tail ends into two adjacent stitches, pulled tightly so that their knots are just poking through the inside, and double knotted.

08Body (Cont'd. from Head)

Rnd 9: sc 1, invdec 1, sc 6 (8)

Rnd 10: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 11: [sc 2, invdec] repeat 2 times (6)

Rnds 12-15: sc in each st (6 x 4)

Rnd 16: [sc 2, inc] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnds 17-18: sc in each st (8 x 2)

Rnd 19: [sc 1, inc] repeat 4 times (12)

Rnd 20: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 21: [sc 3, inc] repeat 3 times (15)

Rnd 22: sc in each st (15)

Rnd 23: [sc 4, inc] repeat 3 times (18)

Rnds 24-26: sc in each st (18 x 3)

Sew the arms on between Rnds 20 and 22 on the bottom of the body.

Use a pipe cleaner, cut in half and twisted up, on the inside of the arms as a sort of skeleton attached to the body before sewing on the arms over it to make your arms posable!

Stuff the head fully. Use a pipe cleaner twisted in half in the neck to make it posable.

Attach the wings just above the arms by using the two ends of the pipe cleaner through two adjacent stitches, and twisted on the inside. Then use the tail end to sew the edge of the wings stitches to the body.

Rnd 27: sc 9, [sc 1, invdec] repeat 3 times (15)

Rnd 28: sc 9, invdec 3 (12)

Rnd 29: sc in each st (12)

Sew the legs onto the bottom of your dragon just under the arms between Rnds 25 and 27 using the two tail ends. Make sure to stuff them slightly before finishing sewing and be sure they are pointed forwards with the two toes closest to each other facing forwards.

Rnd 30: sc 10, invdec 1 (11)

Rnd 31: sc in each st (11)

Rnd 32: sc 9, invdec 1 (10)

Rnd 33: sc in each st (10)

Rnd 34: sc 8, invdec 1 (9)

Rnd 35: sc in each st (9)

Stuff the body mostly.

Rnd 36: sc 7, invdec 1 (8)

Rnd 37: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 38: sc 6, invdec 1 (7)

Rnd 39: sc in each st (7)

Rnd 40: sc 5, invdec 1 (6)

Rnd 41: sc in each st (6)

Stuff fully here. Use a cut pipe cleaner twisted in half for a posable tail.

Rnd 42: sc 4, invdec 1 (5)

Rnd 43: sc in each st (5)

Cut the yarn and pull through. Sew the tail closed.

ew on the spikes along the back of the dragon by using the long tail end sewn through the Rnds along the back, and around the chs connecting the adjacent spikes. I like to start two Rnds after the sbo stitches from the head, and go down 2 Rnds for the first 2 spikes, then 3 Rnds for the remaining spikes. Use the other tail end to fasten the last spike into the body and exit with both ends from an adjacent stitch, double knot tightly, cut and stuff in with the end of a needle.

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