How to Crochet the Spiked Bobble

In this tutorial, we’ll learn how to crochet a brand new version of the bobble stitch that I call the Spiked Bobble. Great for claws, pointed noses, beaks, anywhere where you need a spike and don’t want to sew it on separately!

Check out this stitch. It’s like two different stitches squashed together to make a really pointy bobble. I made it up because I had to make claws for these Hobgoblins but I don’t know what it’s actually called so I’ve been calling it a Spike Bobble.

So this is the spiked bobble, I abbreviate it in my patterns as “sbo”. This stitch is basically two different Stitches put together. As you might have guessed it’s mostly a bobble stitch. With a splash of mini picot thrown in for spice.

If you don’t know how to make a bobble stitch yet go check out my video for that right here then come back, I’ll wait…

The second part of the stitch is a mini picot that you do in the middle of a mini bobble stitch. I’m planning on doing a video for all the amazing uses for a picot in the future, but it’s pretty easy to do, just ch 2 and slip stitch into the back loop of the first ch you made. This makes a little point!

Okay so now you now each part of the stitch, let’s put them together.

Step 1

First, make two repeats for a mini bobble stitch. Meaning yarn over, go into the stitch, yarn over and pull through, then yarn over and pull through two loops, kinda like you’re making a double crochet. And repeat that once more. You should have 3 loops on the hook.

Step 2

Now’s the tough part; without removing the hook, do a mini picot. Ch 2 and slip stitch into the back loop of the first ch made. This can be really difficult to do, especially if you’re working really tightly or with small yarn. Be patient, taking it one part at a time and using your finger nail or a needle to help get the hook into that back loop and then slip stitch one. There should still be 3 loops on the hook after finishing the mini picot.

Step 3

Now do one more double Crochet repeat. You should have 4 loops on the hook now.

Step 4

Finally, finish the stitch by yarning over and pulling through all the loops on the hook.

I think the Spiked Bobble would probably make a good witch nose or maybe spikes on the back of an insect, but I’m thinking mostly about amigurumi I suppose. If you have any cool ideas for this stitch or know the real name, let me know in the comments or on the Facebook group!

Try the Spiked Bobble out!

Learn more about Amigurumi!

5 Creative Ways to Use Safety Eyes

how to use safety eyes

Safety eyes are probably the easiest way to add adorable looking eyes to your amigurumi, and if you do it right there are a whole lot of different ways to customize them.

Here’s how to use safety eyes for your amigurumi and 5 creative ways to use safety eyes!

Safety Eyes are plastic attachable eyes that snap together to connect to any surface with a small hole or that you can poke through, obviously making them perfect for amigurumi. They come in all shapes and sizes, you can get round ones, oval ones, felt ones, some that look like cat eyes, some that look like a little noses, some that look like koala noses. There are an insane combination of types.

They are composed of two parts, a front and back. The front is the main part that comes in the variety of types and sizes, and the backs come in basically two different types, hard or soft plastic.




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Amigurumi 101 is an ongoing series of tutorials teaching how to crochet Amigurumi better, easier and quicker with new  lessons coming out monthly.

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How to Crochet Stripes Perfectly for Amigurumi

Crochet Stripes

In this tutorial I’ll teach you how to crochet stripes perfectly for your amigurumi while crocheting in the Rnd. Normally when doing color changes and crocheting stripes you end up with a very noticeable vertical seam indicating exactly where you changed colors. You also get this less than perfect horizontal line where the tops of the previous Rnd are showing through the next Rnd.

The following techniques are built to make the most seamless lines between rounds of color changes, both vertically and horizontally, making it great technique for beanies, or my favorite, amigurumi. Without further ado, let’s learn how to crochet stripes perfectly…

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The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– 2 Colors
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet

Crochet Stripes

How to Crochet Stripes Perfectly

(01:10) Part 1: Half Color Changes

Before I teach you the two techniques, in order to truly crochet stripes perfectly, you need to first know how to do half color changes with the single crochet. Without them, sure you can get a pretty seamless vertical join down the back, but you won’t get a really clean horizontal line between the stripes.

For a Half color change we’re crocheting the top of the stitch in one color and the bottom in another. This can be used to make really detailed designs in your amigurumi, which I’ll be discussing in a future video, but for now here’s how it’s done.


Crochet Stripes

First at the end of the last Rnd in the previous color, in this case, purple, you want to stop crocheting right before the last loop is pulled through. So you should have two loops on the hook.

Crochet Stripes
Crochet Stripes

Now place a new color, (green), in between the two loops and the connected yarn.

Place your index finger of your non dominant hand (for me that’s my left) in between the two colors so that our second color, green, is on the bottom. Now flip under so that our new color is on the top, and pull through with the new color.


Crochet Stripes
Crochet Stripes

Now flip back around using the same technique in the same direction so that our first color, purple, is on the top, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over with our first yarn and pull through.

Continue this technique, switching colors so that the top of the stitch is Green and bottom is purple in each stitch around.

Okay, now that you know how to do half color changes, lets move onto the techniques that are vital for crochet stripes….

Crochet Stripes

(02:49) Part 2: The No Cut Join

This technique may not be as seamless as the Invisible Join, but it’s a lot easier, and you don’t need to cut the yarn so you won’t have any annoying tail ends to weave in when your done with your crochet stripes!

Here we are at the end of a Rnd of single crochet stitches ready to start our color changes. Before you finish the Rnd be sure to lock in a strand of your second color by crocheting around it with your last stitch.

Crochet Stripes

For the No-Cut Join, slip stitch into the next st.

Now Ch 1 using the new color, and single crochet into the same stitch that you slip stitched into. In this Rnd we’re doing all half color changes, so when you make your single crochet stitches make sure the bottom of the st is your original and the top is the new color.

Make sure to count your sts as you go around so you don’t make too many stitches.

At the end of the Rnd we’ll do the same technique to connect to the first st. into the first st you made, ch 1 (this time I’m making the entire Rnd in Green so I don’t need to change colors), and begin single crocheting in each st around starting in the same stitch you just slip stitched into.

If you get to a Rnd where the colors don’t change (for example, if the next Rnd were all in Green) then you don’t need to do the slip stitch to connect, just continue single crocheting in each st around like you normally would.

Basically all this is doing is making the end of the color changed Rnd pulled downward to match the beginning of the Rnd and make it even, but it does leave this little indicator showing where the technique was done, making it less than perfect. There is a way to fix that though, which I’ll tell you about in just a sec…


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Crochet Stripes

(05:34) Part 3: The Invisible Join

This technique is practically un-noticeable, but requires a bit more work than the No-Cut Join because you have to cut the yarn after each Rnd.

When you’re prepared for a color change, you have to first make a hidden end by cutting the yarn and pulling through. Then with either a needle or your crochet hook, go through the back of the 2nd stitch from the hook with the tail. Then go back through the back loop of the last stitch made. This makes an end that mirrors the rest of the stitches around and get’s you set up for a perfect color change.


How to make a hidden end. You’ll have to make this each round you make a color change for the Invisible Join.

Now insert the hook back into the hidden end you just made, and pull a loop through using the tail.

Make a slip knot with the new color and ch 1 with it.

Starting in the same stitch you pulled the first loop through, sc in each st around making half color changes all the way around so that the top of the stitch is your new color, and the bottom is your previous color.

You may need to pick up a new strand of the original color depending on how long of and end you left when you cut the yarn.

You will likely have to untwist the yarn half way through as well because of the half color changes.

When you get back around, you’ll have to cut the yarn and make a hidden end again into the first half color changed stitch. Then insert the crochet hook into the hidden end you just made, pull the tail through, ch 1, and single crochet all the way around in your new color.

Now you’ll have a perfect horizontal and vertical join around, and you can continue this technique again when you want to make another color change for the next crochet stripes.

The problem with this technique is that it leaves a lot of tail ends on the inside, and it’s a bit annoying and time consuming to do, especially if you want to make a lot of crochet stripes. That’s why I personally prefer the No-Cut Join because I’m lazy and can deal with the fact that I’m not perfect.

Crochet Stripes

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How to Crochet the Seamless Seam

Came up with this new technique that I’m calling the seamless seam when I was writing the pattern for next Monday’s Snowman pattern (if you know the real name please let me know in the comments!!). It’s made so you can get the look of something being sewn together without actually having to sew two pieces together!

Here’s how I made it…

Materials I’m Using:
• The Yarn (Medium Weight)
• Size I9/5.50mm Hook

Gauge: Unimportant

Worked in the Round

The Stitches:
• St : Stitch
• Sc : Single Crochet
• Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
• FLO : Front Loops Only
• BLO : Back Loops Only
• InvDec : Invisible Decrease

Crochet Piggy Pig

Want this piggy pattern? Let me know in the comments!

The Pattern

So for my piece I’m working in the Rnd and just decreased down from 24 > 18 stitches around using InvDec…

(2:00) Rnd 1: Working in the BLO, [sc 1, dec 1] repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 1 finished

Now, for the next Rnd you’ll be working into the front loops from Rnd 1 and the previous Rnd too, lets call it “Rnd 0”.

The problem is, there are more sts in Rnd 0 than there are in Rnd 1.

You’ll have to make sure each front loop from Rnd 0 gets a stitch,

and every other back loop from Rnd 1 gets an increase.

(2:52) Rnd 2: Working into the FLO from Rnd 0 and Rnd 1, making sure that each front loop from Rnd 0 gets 1 st only, [sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18)

crocheted snowman amigurumi by club crochet

Now you can continue on in your pattern.

If you do an increasing Rnd (ex: [sc 2, inc] x 6) you’ll get more of a fat body, like my little piglet guy or a Snowman.

If you just sc in each st it will go straight down and you’ll get more of a lolly pop figure, like this 📍

I'll be giving away a free month to Club Crochet to some of my favorite uses of this technique. Post a picture to Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or Crafty Amino with #ClubCrochet for a chance to win!

How to Make a Chubby Derpy Face for your Amigurumi

Being a really big fan of shows like Adventure Time and Over the Garden Wall really effects the things I make especially when it comes to Amigurumi.

One of my favorite things they do in the show is make derpy, dorky faces.

Here’s a quick how to video for making a derpy face for your amigurumi with just some black thread and a needle!

Full pattern for Wilber coming soon! Make sure to subscribe to the YouTube channel and enable notifications to be notified when the full Wilber pattern goes live!

Pasta la’ Pizza!

How to Crochet Finger Puppets

I had this idea a 6 or so months ago to turn all my little characters into finger puppets, and like all my ideas I proceeded to wait a ridiculously long time before I actually did something with it!! I wish I didn’t wait so long because these are THE BOMB!!! And super duper easy to make!!

In this post I’ll be giving you the low down (down low?) about how to turn any of your crocheted amigurumi into finger puppets.

At first I figured I would just leave the bottom open to make it easy. The issue with that was I could feel all the stuffing, yarn threads and eyes on the inside and I didn’t like it one bit.


So here’s my fix, basically I make the end a bit longer instead of sewing it closed. Then I simply stuff it back into the piece!

Couple things to note before starting:

• First off you’ll be working in the round for this technique, this can easily be done with turns though too
• Second, you’ll want to do this at the end of your project just before stuffing it in. This means for the project you’ll have to be working from the top down.  If you’re working from the bottom up then you can still use this technique by going backwards, but it’s gonna be a little trickier.


Okay to start, you want to have your piece almost closed, get it down to 12 stitches around.

To make it easier to stuff in, I suggest working into the back loops only for the first Rnd.


Rnd 1: Working in the back loops only, [sc 2, dec 1] repeat 3 times (9)

Try making these stitches a little tight, this will make it grip to your finger better. Also if you haven’t stuffed your amigurumi yet, stuff it now. Remember that you’ll be stuffing it with this end, so make sure not to stuff it too much.


Rnds 2 – 4: sc in each st around (9 x 3)

You can repeat these Rnds to make it longer and fit further down on your finger. Making more Rnds would be useful if your amigurumi is a bit larger or heavier and you’re worried of it falling of your finger.

Really quick before we continue. This tutorial is brought to you by Club Crochet the first subscription service just for crocheters!

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Rnd 5:
[sc 1, dec 1] repeat 3 times (6)

Okay now we can finally sew it closed and stuff it in. See the video above to get specific instructions but you’re basically just sewing it closed like you would normally sew a piece closed.

See How to Sew Closed

Here’s the hardest part, stuffing it back into the piece. First take the tail end and go through the top, you’ll use this to pull it in after stuffing. For stuffing the end in I do a kinda pincer like motion; pinching the piece and stuffing it in simultaneously.

Once you have it stuffed in with your fingers all the way, pull the end to really get it fully stuffed it. 

Finally, cut the end close!

Pasta la Pizza and Happy Hookin!
– Lou