Triceratops Dinosaur

crocheted triceratops

Learn how to make crocheted triceratops amigurumi! This easy crocheted triceratops tutorial teaches you how to crochet a triceratops with a video or written! It even includes a free PDF!

What does a triceratops sit on?

His tricera-bottom! 

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The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– Main Color (Body Color)
– White (Horns)
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook
•Plastic Saftey Bead Eyes (6mm+)
•Stuffing
•Needle

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 6” long

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
– InvDec : Invisible Decrease
– BLO : Back Loops Only
– FLO : Front Loops Only
– M.p : Mini Picot (Ch 2, working in the BLO of the 2nd ch from the hook, sl.st 1)
– Bo : Bobble Stitch
1. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch
2. Yarn over and pull through
3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops
4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 four times total
5. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook

How to Make a Crochet Triceratops Amigurumi

(01:21) Horns (make 3):

[All in White]

Ch 2, Working in the BLO of the 2rd ch from the hook, sc 1

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through to sew along the neck and back.

Body:

[All in Main color]

Ch 2 or use the magic loop method

(06:38) Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (4)

(07:04) Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, working in BLO, sc 1, working in both loops, inc (6)

(08:18) Rnd 3: inc in each st (12)

(09:04) Rnd 4: [sc 3, inc] repeat 3 times (15)

(09:32) Rnd 5: [sc 4, inc] repeat 3 times (18)

(07:04) Rnd 6: sc 6, working in FLO, sc 1, [hdc 1, m.p, hdc 1] repeat 5 times, sc 1 (18 [+5 m.p])

(07:04) Rnd 7: sc 6, working in BLO from Rnd 5, sc 12 (18)

(08:18) Rnd 8: sc 1, bo, sc 2, bo, sc 13 (18)

(08:18) Add eyes and horns

(09:04) Rnd 9 – 11: sc in each st (18 x 3)

(09:32) Rnd 12: sc 2, bo, sc 3, bo, sc 11 (18)

(09:32) Rnd 13: sc in each st (18)

(09:32) Rnd 14: [sc 1, invdec] repeat 6 times (12)

Stuff slightly.

(09:32) Rnd 15: invdec, sc 2, invdec 4 (7)

Stuff fully.

(09:32) Rnd 16: invdec, sc 1, invdec, sc 1, sl.st 1 (5)

Cut the yarn and pull through. Sew together.

Iron Man Pod Puppet Amigurumi

crocheted iron man

Learn how to make crocheted Iron Man finger puppet! This easy crocheted Iron Man tutorial teaches you how to crochet Iron Man with a video or written instructions! It even includes a free PDF!

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The Materials:
• The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– Red (Color A)
– Gold (Color B)
– Light Blue (Accents)
– Black Thread (mouth)
• Size G6/4.00mm Hook
• Plastic Saftey Bead Eyes
• Stuffing
• Needle

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 2” tall

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
– FLO : Front Loops Only
– BLO : Back Loops Only
– Bo : Bobble Stitch
1. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch
2. Yarn over and pull through
3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops
4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 four times total
5. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook

For color changes in Bobble Stitches:
[Blue/Red/Green] = [Step 3/Step 1/Step 2]

How to Make a Crocheted Iron Man Finger Puppet

 

(00:51) Shoulder Pads (make 2):

[All in Red]

Ch 3, cut the yarn. Sew these onto the arms (after Rnd 11)

Head:

[Starting in R (Red)]

Ch 2 or use magic loop method

(01:55) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6) [All R]

(02:15) Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12) [All R]

(03:05) Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18) [All R]

(04:10) Rnd 4: sc in each st (18) [All R]

(05:50) Rnd 5: sc in each st (18) [2 G, 2 G/R, 2 G, 12 R]

(08:27) Rnd 6: sc in each st (18) [7 G, 11 R]

(10:21) Rnd 7: sc in each st (18) [7 G, 11 R]

(11:49) Rnd 8: sc in each st (18) [1 R, 5 G, 1 R/G, 11 R]

(14:14) Rnd 9: sc in each st (18) [2 R, 4 R/G, 12 R]

Body (Continuing from Head):

(15:49) Rnd 10: bo, sc 7, bo, sc 9 (18) [1 G/G/R (bo), 3 R, 1 R/ LB, 3 R, 1 G/G/R (bo), 9 R]

(22:23) Rnd 11: sc in each st (18) [All R]

(23:27) Add the eyes in Rnd 7 using an extra thread of Light Blue yarn. The right eye goes in stitch 2, and the left goes in stitch 6.

(26:30) Embroider on the mouth between Rnds 8 and 9 using Black Thread.

(28:29) Add a strand of Light Blue yarn under the hands.

(30:02) Sew on the Shoulder Pads over the hands.


(32:20) Rnd 12: sc 2, bo, sc 4, bo, sc 10 (18) [2 R, 1 G/G/R (bo), 4 R, 1 G/G/R (bo), 10 R]

(35:34) Embroider on ribs between the hands and feet using Gold yarn.

[All R from here on]

(37:43) Rnd 13: [sc, dec] repeat 6 times (12)

For regular end:
Rnd 14: dec in each st (6)

Cut the yarn, stuff, and sew closed.

For finger-puppet version:
(38:57) Rnd 14: [sc 2, invdec] repeat 3 times (9)

(41:18) Rnd 15 – 17: sc in each st (9 x 3)

(42:35) Rnd 18: [sc, invdec] repeat 3 times (6)

Cut the yarn, stuff, and sew closed.

Now stuff it into the body. This may take a bit of tweaking to get all the way in.

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Bumble Bee Amigurumi

crochet bee amigurumi

Learn how to make crochet bee amigurumi! This easy crochet bee tutorial teaches you how to crochet a bee with a video or written! It even includes a free PDF!

What did the Queen Bee say to the Worker Bee?

Bee-hive yourself! 

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The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– Yellow (Body Color)
– Black (Body Color 2)
– Orange (Worker helmet)
– White (Wings)
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook
•Plastic Saftey Bead Eyes (6mm+)
•Stuffing
•Needle

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 6” long

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Hdc : Half Double Crochet
– Dc : Double Crochet
– Tr : Trebble / Tripple Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
– InvDec : Invisible Decrease
– FLO : Front Loops Only
– M.p : Mini Picot
(ch 2, sl.st into the back loop of the 2nd ch from the hook)

How to Make a Crochet Bee Amigurumi

(01:54) Wings (make 2):

[All in White]
Ch 7 (each st in the next row goes in a single ch)

Row 1: Skip 3 chs, Tr 1, Dc 1, Hdc 1, Sc 1 (4)

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through.

Use the two tail ends to sew onto the body of the bee (on the first black stripe).

Making the perfect stripes:

The following color changes in the body for how to crochet a bee uses a technique called the “No Cut Join” to make horizontally aligned stripes. To make a more perfect stripe both horizontally and vertically, see my video here for the invisible join:

ClubCrochet.com/STRIPES

Body:

[Starting in Y (Yellow)]

Ch 2 or use the magic loop method

(04:44) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6)

(05:15) Rnd 2: inc (sc 2) in each st around (12)

(06:16) Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18)

(07:14) Rnd 4: sc in each st (18)

[Color changes start here]

(08:38) Rnd 5: sc in each st (18) [All B/Y]

(13:30) Rnd 6: sc in each st (18) [All Y/B]

(15:11) Rnd 7: sc in each st (18) [All B/Y]

 

(16:43) Add eyes between Rnds 2 and 3.

(18:30) Add a smile between the eyes using black thread (or split black yarn).

(21:19) Sew on the wings in the first black stripe.

(25:08) Rnd 8: [sc 4, invdec 1] repeat 3 times (15) [All Y/B]

(28:25) Rnd 9: [sc 3, invdec 1] repeat 3 times (12) [All B/Y]

[All Black from here on]

(31:15) Rnd 10: [sc 2, invdec 1] repeat 3 times (9)

Stuff thoroughly.

(33:22) Rnd 11: [sc 1, invdec 1] repeat 3 times (6)

(35:24) Rnd 12: invdec in each st (3)

(36:31) Cut, pull through and sew together. Pinch the end to make it a point.

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Queen Bee
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How to Crochet Stripes Perfectly for Amigurumi

Crochet Stripes

In this tutorial I’ll teach you how to crochet stripes perfectly for your amigurumi while crocheting in the Rnd. Normally when doing color changes and crocheting stripes you end up with a very noticeable vertical seam indicating exactly where you changed colors. You also get this less than perfect horizontal line where the tops of the previous Rnd are showing through the next Rnd.

The following techniques are built to make the most seamless lines between rounds of color changes, both vertically and horizontally, making it great technique for beanies, or my favorite, amigurumi. Without further ado, let’s learn how to crochet stripes perfectly…

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The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– 2 Colors
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook
•Needle

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet

Crochet Stripes

How to Crochet Stripes Perfectly

(01:10) Part 1: Half Color Changes

Before I teach you the two techniques, in order to truly crochet stripes perfectly, you need to first know how to do half color changes with the single crochet. Without them, sure you can get a pretty seamless vertical join down the back, but you won’t get a really clean horizontal line between the stripes.

For a Half color change we’re crocheting the top of the stitch in one color and the bottom in another. This can be used to make really detailed designs in your amigurumi, which I’ll be discussing in a future video, but for now here’s how it’s done.

 

Crochet Stripes

First at the end of the last Rnd in the previous color, in this case, purple, you want to stop crocheting right before the last loop is pulled through. So you should have two loops on the hook.

Crochet Stripes
Crochet Stripes

Now place a new color, (green), in between the two loops and the connected yarn.

Place your index finger of your non dominant hand (for me that’s my left) in between the two colors so that our second color, green, is on the bottom. Now flip under so that our new color is on the top, and pull through with the new color.

 

Crochet Stripes
Crochet Stripes

Now flip back around using the same technique in the same direction so that our first color, purple, is on the top, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over with our first yarn and pull through.

Continue this technique, switching colors so that the top of the stitch is Green and bottom is purple in each stitch around.

Okay, now that you know how to do half color changes, lets move onto the techniques that are vital for crochet stripes….

Crochet Stripes

(02:49) Part 2: The No Cut Join

This technique may not be as seamless as the Invisible Join, but it’s a lot easier, and you don’t need to cut the yarn so you won’t have any annoying tail ends to weave in when your done with your crochet stripes!

Here we are at the end of a Rnd of single crochet stitches ready to start our color changes. Before you finish the Rnd be sure to lock in a strand of your second color by crocheting around it with your last stitch.

Crochet Stripes

For the No-Cut Join, slip stitch into the next st.

Now Ch 1 using the new color, and single crochet into the same stitch that you slip stitched into. In this Rnd we’re doing all half color changes, so when you make your single crochet stitches make sure the bottom of the st is your original and the top is the new color.

Make sure to count your sts as you go around so you don’t make too many stitches.

At the end of the Rnd we’ll do the same technique to connect to the first st. Sl.st into the first st you made, ch 1 (this time I’m making the entire Rnd in Green so I don’t need to change colors), and begin single crocheting in each st around starting in the same stitch you just slip stitched into.

If you get to a Rnd where the colors don’t change (for example, if the next Rnd were all in Green) then you don’t need to do the slip stitch to connect, just continue single crocheting in each st around like you normally would.

Basically all this is doing is making the end of the color changed Rnd pulled downward to match the beginning of the Rnd and make it even, but it does leave this little indicator showing where the technique was done, making it less than perfect. There is a way to fix that though, which I’ll tell you about in just a sec…

 

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Crochet Stripes

(05:34) Part 3: The Invisible Join

This technique is practically un-noticeable, but requires a bit more work than the No-Cut Join because you have to cut the yarn after each Rnd.

When you’re prepared for a color change, you have to first make a hidden end by cutting the yarn and pulling through. Then with either a needle or your crochet hook, go through the back of the 2nd stitch from the hook with the tail. Then go back through the back loop of the last stitch made. This makes an end that mirrors the rest of the stitches around and get’s you set up for a perfect color change.

 

How to make a hidden end. You’ll have to make this each round you make a color change for the Invisible Join.

Now insert the hook back into the hidden end you just made, and pull a loop through using the tail.

Make a slip knot with the new color and ch 1 with it.

Starting in the same stitch you pulled the first loop through, sc in each st around making half color changes all the way around so that the top of the stitch is your new color, and the bottom is your previous color.

You may need to pick up a new strand of the original color depending on how long of and end you left when you cut the yarn.

You will likely have to untwist the yarn half way through as well because of the half color changes.

When you get back around, you’ll have to cut the yarn and make a hidden end again into the first half color changed stitch. Then insert the crochet hook into the hidden end you just made, pull the tail through, ch 1, and single crochet all the way around in your new color.

Now you’ll have a perfect horizontal and vertical join around, and you can continue this technique again when you want to make another color change for the next crochet stripes.

The problem with this technique is that it leaves a lot of tail ends on the inside, and it’s a bit annoying and time consuming to do, especially if you want to make a lot of crochet stripes. That’s why I personally prefer the No-Cut Join because I’m lazy and can deal with the fact that I’m not perfect.

Crochet Stripes

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Queen Bee
Hive
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Crocheted Flower Pattern

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Quick and easy pattern for how to crochet flowers with an open hole in the center! You can button these onto hats or connect them together to make a string of flowers for a party!!

Because they’re so quick to make, I like to make them on the bus and give them to strangers 🙂 Enjoy!

The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– 2 Colors
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook
•Needle

Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Hdc : Half Double Crochet
– Dc : Double Crochet
– M.p : Mini Picot (ch 2, sl.st into the back loop of the 2nd ch from the hook)

The Pattern

[Starting in Color A]

Ch 6, sl.st into the first ch to create a ring

Rnd 1: Sc 15 times around the ring (not into the chs, but into the center of the ring), Sl.st into the first ch made (15 sc + 1 sl.st)

[Change to Color B]*
(* = optional)

Rnd 2: [ch 6, skip 2 sts, sl.st in 3rd st] repeat 5 times (30 ch + 5 sl.st)

Rnd 3: [Working around the chs from Rnd 2: sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2. Working into the connecting st from Rnd 1: Sl.st 1] repeat 5 times (20 sc + 20 hdc + 10 sc + 5 sl.st = 55 total)

*You can make a mini picot (ch 2, sl.st into the back loop of the 2nd ch from the hook) between the dcs in Rnd 3 to get a pointed petel.

Cut the yarn, pull through through and sew back into the piece. Hide the ends.

You can use a 1/2” – 1” button to fasten it onto any surface!

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Queen Bee
Hive
Flowers

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Chubzilla Pattern

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This is the first guest pattern up on Club Crochet! Thank you so much for sharing the pattern Geeky Hooker! Check out her website here, and her new book, Literary Yarns, here!

The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– Olive Green
– Yellow
– Forest Green (Fin)
•Size E4/3.50mm Hook
•Plastic Safety Bead Eyes
•Stuffing
•Needle

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 5” tall
Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Hdc : Half-Double Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
– InvDec : Invisible Decrease
– FLO : Front Loops Only
– BLO : Back Loops Only

The Pattern

Time codes below, ex: (7:47), pertain to the time codes on the video

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(02:20) Arms (make 2):
[All in O (Olive Green)]
Ch 2 or use Magic Loop method

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6)

Rnd 2: [sc 1, inc] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 3: sc in each st (9)

Sl.st 1, cut the yarn pull through to sew onto the long section.

(05:13) Legs (make 2):
[Starting in Y]
Ch 2 or use Magic Loop method

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6) [All Y]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12) [All Y]

Rnds 3 – 4: sc in each st around (12 x 2) [All O]

Sl.st 1, cut the yarn pull through to sew onto the long section. Sew to the bottom of the body, offset to the side so that your little monster can sit.

(08:37) Tail:
[All in O]
Ch 2 or use Magic Loop method

Rnd 1: Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (3)

Rnd 2: Working in BLO, sc in each st (3)

Rnd 3: inc in each st (6)

Rnd 4: [sc 1, inc] repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 5: [sc 2, inc] repeat 3 times (12)

Sl.st in next st, cut the yarn and pull through, leaving a long enough end to sew this onto the body.

(13:30) Spines:
[All in Forest Green]
Ch 25

Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl.st,
[ch 3, skip 1 st, sl.st in next] repeat 9 times,
[ch 2, skip 1 st, sl.st in next] repeat 2 times, sl.st 1.

Cut the yarn and pull through. Sew the strip of spines to the monster’s back starting from the tapered end of the spines, starting from the tip of the tail and ending at the top of the head.

Body:
[Starting in O]
Ch 2 or use Magic Loop method

(17:13) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6) [All O]

(17:49) Rnd 2: inc in each st (12) [All O]

(18:45) Rnd 3: [sc, inc] repeat 6 times (18) [All O]

(19:52) Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times (24) [All O]

(21:04) Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times (30) [All O]

(22:31) Rnd 6 – 7: sc in each st (30 x 2) [All O]

(23:00) Rnd 8: sc 13, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 13 (32) [All O]

(24:53) Rnd 9: sc 13, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 13 (34) [All O]

(26:33) Rnd 10: sc 13, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 13 (36) [All O]

(28:04) Rnds 11 – 12: sc in each st (36 x 2) [All O]

(28:34) Rnd 13: sc 13, invdec 2, sc 2, invdec 2, sc 13 (32) [All O]

(31:00) Rnd 14: sc 13, invdec 1, sc 2, invdec 1, sc 13 (30) [All O]

(32:45) Rnd 15: [sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times (36) [All O]

(35:00) Attach safety eyes between rows 8 and 9, about 8 stitches apart.

(38:09) Rnd 16: [sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times (42) [17 O, 8 Y, 17 O]

(42:58) Using black embroidery oss, sew on two nostrils on the snout.

(45:47) Rnd 17: sc in each st (42) [17 O, 9 Y, 16 O]

(48:24) Rnd 18 – 20: sc in each st (42 x 3) [17 O, 10 Y, 15 O]

(51:06) Rnd 21: [sc 5, invdec] repeat 6 times (36) [16 O, 7 Y, 13 O]

(55:46) Rnd 22: [sc 4, invdec] repeat 6 times (30) [14 O, 6 Y, 10 O]

(59:05) Rnd 23: [sc 3, invdec] repeat 6 times (24) [All O]

(1:00:56) Sew on the arms, legs, and tail.

(1:07:27) Stuff rmly, taking care to stuff into the snout area as well. Continue to stuff as needed as you going along from this point on.

(1:08:31) Rnd 24: [sc 2, invdec] repeat 6 times (18) [All O]

(1:10:22) Rnd 25: [sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times (12) [All O]

(1:12:41) Rnd 26: dec in each st (6) [All O]

(1:14:56) Cut the yarn and pull through. Make sure its stuffed fully and sew together.

(1:15:56) Sew on the spine along the back.

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How to Crochet a Fairy in a Bottle

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Hey Listen!

So I made this cute little fairy in a bottle for my girlfriend! Thought it could also make pretty cool earrings or a keychain!

The Materials:
The Yarn (Worsted Weight Cotton or Thread)
Pink (Main Color)
White (Wings)
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook (For Worsted Weight Yarn) or Size 1.25 mm Hook (For thread)
•Stuffing
•Needle
*Jar with cork top, fishing line, and scotch tape

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 2” tall
Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Hdc : Half-Double Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase

The Pattern

(01:42) Large Wings (make 2):
[All in White]
Ch 7, working in BLO of the chs, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl.st 1, sc 1, hdc 2, sc 2 (6)

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through. Sew onto the body in Rnd 3 / 4.

(04:00) Small Wings (make 2):
[All in White]
Ch 3, working in BLO of the chs, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl.st 1, hdc 1 (2)

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through. Sew onto the body just below each large wing.

Main Body:
[All in Pink]
Ch 2 or use magic loop method

(06:49) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6)

(07:28) Rnd 2: inc (sc 2) in each st around (12)

(08:26) Rnd 3: [sc 3, inc] repeat 3 times (15)

(09:30) Rnd 4 – 6: sc in each st (15 x 3)

(10:00) Rnd 7: [sc 3, invdec] repeat 3 times (12)

(11:30) Sew on the wings.

(17:35) Rnd 8: dec in each st (6)

Cut the yarn, stuff, and sew closed.

Attach to the jar by sewing through the finished fairy with fishing line and taping onto the cork lid.

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Link’s Shield Pattern

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What did Navi say when Link couldn’t open the door?

“Triforce”

I originally made this shield for a crocheted Link finger puppet, but I thought this would make a pretty cool pin! 

The Materials:
•The Yarn (Worsted Weight)
– Blue (Shield / Sword)
– Grey (Shield / Sword)
– Yellow (Triforce)
– Red Thread (Sheild Detail)
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook
•Stuffing
•Needle

Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1”
Finished piece is about 2” tall
Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
– M.p : Mini Picot (Ch 2, sl.st in BLO of the 2nd ch from the hook)

Color Changes:
[See Color PDF for full instructions and video]
This pattern requires a few color changes. Be sure to check the note at the end of each Rnd before you make the round to know when to change colors. Carry colors required for each round along with you before you need to do a color change.

For color changes with Color/Color (ex: 1 Red/Blue), make the first pull through with the first color (Red), and next with the second color (Blue)

Color Abbreviations:
Grey = Gr
Blue =Bl

The Pattern

[Starting in Bl (Blue)]
Ch 2 or use magic loop methodCrocheted Link's Shield

(02:42) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6) [All Bl]

(03:36) Rnd 2: inc (sc 2) in each st around (12) [All Bl]

Rnd 3 has strange color changes in it, so for this Rnd only I’ll be placing the color changes after the sts to make it easier.

(05:00) Rnd 3: M.p (Gr), sc 1 (Gr/Bl), inc with ch 1 between sts (Gr), sc 1 (Gr/Bl), M.p (Gr), sc 4 (Gr/Bl), inc with m.p between sts (Gr), sc 3 (Gr/Bl), sl.st (Gr)

Cut the yarn, pull through leaving a somewhat long end.

(10:15) Hide the Grey end by going around the first m.p made, then going back into the last sl.st made. Hide the Blue end into the sts going towards the center.

(13:38) Embroider on a Triforce triangle using Yellow yarn.
(15:55) Embroider on a bird using Red thread or Red yarn split in two.
(22:00) Embroider on the Grey markings by using the tail end.

Use the two Blue ends (the one from
the beginning and the end) to sew
the shield onto Link.

This tutorial is brought to you by…

• Monthly patterns and projects
• Full video tutorials for each pattern
• Access to the Club Crochet Library
• Kits mailed directly to your door with all the materials to make one of that months patterns.

Santa Hat Pattern

*Requires a free Club Crochet Account

What do you call a kid who doesn’t believe in Santa?

A rebel without a Claus.

For this pattern I decided to stray from amigurumi and thought making a hat would be pretty fun. It’s a bit longer of a pattern, but can still be made in just a couple of hours! 

The Materials:
•The Yarn (Medium Weight)
– Main Color (Red)
– White (Brim / Pom-Pom)
* Skin Tone (Button-on Ears)
•Size I9/5.50mm Hook
•Needle
* White 1” Buttons (For ears)

* = Things you’ll only need if you’re making Elf Ears to add to the side. This pattern requires a Club Crochet Membership to access. Learn more here: http://www.clubcrochet.com/elfears

Gauge: 3 Rnds and 3 sts per 1”
Worked in the round

The Stitches:
– Ch : Chain stitch
– St : Stitch
– Sl.st : Slip Stitch
– Sc : Single Crochet
– Hdc : Half-Double Crochet
– Inc : Increase
– FLO : Front Loops Only
– BLO : Back Loops Only

– The Pattern Part 1 –

Time codes below, ex: (7:47), pertain to the time codes on the Part 1 Video

Main Section:
[Starting in Main Color]
Ch 2 or use magic loop method

(1:48) Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or into magic loop (6)

(2:48) Rnd 2: [sc 1, inc] repeat 3 times (9)

(4:15) Rnd 3: [sc 2, inc] repeat 3 times (12)

(5:21) Rnd 4 – 5: sc in each st (12 x 2)

(6:43) Rnd 6: [sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18)

(7:47) Rnd 7 – 8: sc in each st (18 x 2)

(8:07) Rnd 9: [sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times (24)

(9:10) Rnd 10 – 11: sc in each st (24 x 2)

(11:08) Rnd 12: [sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times (30)

(12:45) Rnd 13 – 14: sc in each st (30 x 2)

(13:00) Rnd 15: [sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times (36)

(13:48) Rnd 16 – 18: sc in each st (36 x 3)

(15:07) Rnd 19: [sc 5, inc] repeat 6 times (42)

(17:31) Rnd 20 – 22: sc in each st (42 x 3)

(17:50) Rnd 23: [sc 6, inc] repeat 6 times (48)

(20:16) Rnd 24 – 26: sc in each st (48 x 3)

(20:45) Rnd 27: [sc 7, inc] repeat 6 times (54)

(21:45) Rnd 28 – 30: sc in each st (54 x 3)

(22:21) Rnd 31: [sc 8, inc] repeat 6 times (60)

Skip to Rnd N for size Extra Small

(24:55) Rnd 32 – 34: sc in each st (60 x 3)

(26:16) Rnd 35: [sc 9, inc] repeat 6 times (66)

Skip to Rnd N for size Small

(28:34) Rnd 36 – 38: sc in each st (66 x 3)

(29:21) Rnd 39: [sc 10, inc] repeat 6 times (72)

Skip toRnd N for size Medium

Rnd 40 – 42: sc in each st (72 x 3)

Rnd 43: [sc 11, inc] repeat 6 times (78)

Skip to Rnd N for size Large

Rnd 44 – 46: sc in each st (78 x 3)

Rnd 47: [sc 12, inc] repeat 6 times (84)

Skip to Rnd N for size Extra Large


(31:29) Rnd N:

This Rnd will be the length of the hat and it’s size depends on what size you made and personal preference. I personally like my length to be 12 Rnds. It should reach just above your ear lobes when worn.

Rnd N: sc in each st around (? x ?)

Repeat Rnd N to desired length (I made 12 Rnds)

(34:45) If you’re adding the Button-on Elf Ears [See page 6] sew on buttons where your ears are when the hat is on your head.

– The Pattern Part 2 –

Time codes below, ex: (7:47), pertain to the time codes on the Part 2 Video

Brim:
[Change to White]
Ch 14 (or to desired length for the brim +2)

(03:17) Row 1: Skip the first 2 chs, hdc in each ch down stoping 1 ch before the end. Using the last ch and the connecting st on the rim (the last st from Rnd N), sc2tog. (Pic 1)

This means you pull 1 loop through the ch, then pull a loop through the rim st, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

Finish Row 1 by sl.st into the next 3 sts on the rim (Pic 2)

Pic 1
Pic 2

(05:24) Row 2: Turn, don’t ch, skip the 3 sl.sts, Working in the BLO, hdc in each st up (12)

(07:56) Row 3: Turn, ch 2, Working in the BLO, hdc in each st down stoping 1 st early

Using the bar above the final st (Pic 3) and the connecting st on the rim, sc2tog. (Pic 4)

Finish Row 3 by sl.st into the next 3 sts on the rim.

Pic 3
Pic 4

(09:57) Row 4: Turn, don’t ch, skip the 3 sl.sts, Working in the BLO, hdc in each st up (12)

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 around until you reach the beginning chs.

 

(14:00) For Button Holes (for adding elf ears only):

When you reach a button, ch 1 and skip a stitch. Button holes should go 4 sts above the rim.

For example, if your button lies on a Row 3 repeat…
Turn, ch 2, Working in the BLO, hdc in each st down stoping 4 sts early (for me that’s 8 hdcs), ch 1, skip a st, then continue as normal.

If your button lies on a Row 4 repeat…
Turn, don’t ch, skip the 3 sl.sts, Working in the BLO, hdc 3, ch 1, skip a st, then continue as normal.

 

(18:06) Brim finishing:

When you reach the end (you should be just finished with your 3 sl.sts) pull your crochet hook out, place your crochet hook into the 1st ch you made before Row 1, pull your loop through.

Working in the BLO, hdc in each st up stoping after each st to pull your crochet hook out, place it in the next ch, and pulling your loop through.

When you get to the top, ch 1, cut and pull through. Hide the end in the seam down.

Pic 5
Pic 6

(23:30) Pom-Pom:

Hold the yarn in your palm with your thumb in between your index and middle fingers.

Begin wrapping the yarn around your two fingers.

Wrap the yarn many times around. The more you wrap it the more dense your pom pom will be.

Cut the yarn and place the newly cut end into the gap between your hand and the wrapped yarn.

Wrap the pulled through yarn around the outside and through the gap again 2 more times.

Pull tight and remove the yarn from the fingers. Double knot the ends and tie it tight.

Cut the loops. Make sure all the loops are cut.

Trim the pom pom so that the ends are even and it’s more of a sphere.

Now begin sewing the pom pom onto the top of the beanie.

Double knot the ends on the inside and cut them close.

You can hide these ends in, but it’s not necessary.

– Part 3 –

Probably my favorite part about the Santa Hat pattern are the button-on Elf Ears you can make and add to the side of your Santa Hat! And you can remove them at any time so you’re not stuck as Santa’s helper forever.

This part of the pattern is a Club Crochet Exclusive meaning that you’ll need a membership to access the pattern. You can learn more about the other benefits of a membership and upgrade you’re account here!

This tutorial is brought to you by…

• Monthly patterns and projects
• Full video tutorials for each pattern
• Access to the Club Crochet Library
• Kits mailed directly to your door with all the materials to make one of that months patterns.

How to Crochet the Seamless Seam

Came up with this new technique that I’m calling the seamless seam when I was writing the pattern for next Monday’s Snowman pattern (if you know the real name please let me know in the comments!!). It’s made so you can get the look of something being sewn together without actually having to sew two pieces together!

Here’s how I made it…

Materials I’m Using:
• The Yarn (Medium Weight)
• Size I9/5.50mm Hook

Gauge: Unimportant

Worked in the Round

The Stitches:
• St : Stitch
• Sc : Single Crochet
• Dec/Inc : Decrease/Increase
• FLO : Front Loops Only
• BLO : Back Loops Only
• InvDec : Invisible Decrease

 
Crochet Piggy Pig

Want this piggy pattern? Let me know in the comments!

The Pattern

So for my piece I’m working in the Rnd and just decreased down from 24 > 18 stitches around using InvDec…

(2:00) Rnd 1: Working in the BLO, [sc 1, dec 1] repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 1 finished

Now, for the next Rnd you’ll be working into the front loops from Rnd 1 and the previous Rnd too, lets call it “Rnd 0”.

The problem is, there are more sts in Rnd 0 than there are in Rnd 1.

You’ll have to make sure each front loop from Rnd 0 gets a stitch,

and every other back loop from Rnd 1 gets an increase.

(2:52) Rnd 2: Working into the FLO from Rnd 0 and Rnd 1, making sure that each front loop from Rnd 0 gets 1 st only, [sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times (18)

crocheted snowman amigurumi by club crochet

Now you can continue on in your pattern.

If you do an increasing Rnd (ex: [sc 2, inc] x 6) you’ll get more of a fat body, like my little piglet guy or a Snowman.

If you just sc in each st it will go straight down and you’ll get more of a lolly pop figure, like this 📍

I'll be giving away a free month to Club Crochet to some of my favorite uses of this technique. Post a picture to Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or Crafty Amino with #ClubCrochet for a chance to win!

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